Titanic Dress (Edwardian Evening Dress)

Made using the Laughing Moon Pattern "1909-1913 Day and Evening Dress" (#00-PATTERN-05). By modern day standards this is a complex pattern. It is constructed unlike any modern day garment I have ever seen but the structure is necessary to attain the period shape. No special undergarments are required for this dress to fit properly which saves having to build a period corset. The pattern offers many variations with three specific "views" and a blouse (guimpe). A good investment. For more details on the pattern see Pattern for the Edwardian/Titanic dress.

The lace seen in the center front of the bodice was found at an antique show and sale. While many collectors purchase and treasure their vintage laces, only taking them from drawers to peek at from time to time I like to use what I find and enjoy it. Some would be appalled at my actions but I love to see the old lace in use. I purchased this piece with this dress in mind. The lace trim on the sleeve cuffs is also vintage and this part was hand stitched. The sleeves you see were not part of the pattern but were added by extending the sleeve pattern of view B. I wanted to demonstrate a use of cotton bobbinet #90-1600-04 that comes in a natural colour, lending itself perfectly as a backing to vintage lace.

The primary fabric is a silk backed rayon pile velvet #79-2260-01 that comes in white only and dyes beautifully! This teal colour was attained by using four tins of Dylon Cold dye purchased at my local fabric store. Tintex and Rit should work equally well. I dyed the velvet along with the silk charmeuse used in the sash and the center front panel in my washing machine. They were dyed together and the difference in colour results from the difference in fibre. Silk is a protein fibre and the rayon pile it a cellulose fiber. By dyeing them together I was able to get the silk charmeuse to match the silk backing of the velvet. This was important as I was creating "cut velvet" down the center front using the devore technique and the chemical Fiber Etch. When creating cut velvet you dissolve the pile of the velvet and reveal the backing. (more info. on the devore technique can be found on the Devore Instructions page )

If a cold water dye has been used then the backing will dye differently from the pile and greater contrast will be evident between the two areas enabling the pattern to stand out. The colour of the backing fabric can be affected by the colour of fabric hanging behind it, for this reason I wanted the backing and the fabric behind it to be the same colour.

After the devore process was complete I opted to highlight the pattern by painting parts of it with gold and silver fabric paint. I used Dylon Colourfun Soft Fabric Paint which does not stiffen fabric but allows it to continue to drape. Fabric paint can be bought at craft stores. Always test your fabrics!

This is not a simple pattern and only the confident and experienced should attempt to create this velvet version. It took a seamstress experienced in costume building 42 hours of sewing time so count on at least this much time or more... but it will be worth the effort. Working with a more manageable fabric will trim off a bit of time and lessen the complexity of making this pattern up but it will never be a "Make it today, wear it tonight." project.

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