Laughing Moon Mercantile Hoops and Bustles 1856-1889 for
Civil War, Victorian, Dickens, Science Fiction
and Bridal.
Pattern includes sizes 4 - 36! waist 22"(56cm) to 50"(127cm).
All of the hoops and bustles in this pattern have been researched
and are copies of period hoops and bustles and all
with the exception of view F require steel.
View A is a bell shaped hoop suitable for 1856-1863
and 1869-1876
View B is an elliptical hoop for 1863-1871
View C is a bustle train supporter
1869-1876 and 1883-1889
View D and E are
bustles for
1883-1889
View F is
a
basic bustle pad common throughtout the 19th century
The bustle and train supporter (view C) caught my attention
and I could not wait to get started on it.
I wanted mine to clearly illustrate all that was
happening in this amazingly shaped garment so I chose
to use striped fabric and highly contrasting bias
on the outside rather
than on the inside of the garment. The pattern instructions
tell you to sew the casing on the inside which is
better but would not have been obvious in these
pictures.
A lack of legs on the dress form means the bustle tips
forward at the bottom. Legs and the inner panel stop this
tilting on a person.
This bustle and train supporter was not difficult to
make as the instructions
were clear and well illustrated.
I did however find that I
needed to change one thing and that was due to fit and
could be because I am shorter
than average - it was not
a big deal or a problem. There
is internal or hidden structure
to this bustle
(and to most others). This
internal structure consists
of simple panels that rest
across the bum and across
the calves.
I found the upper panel, the one that
rests against the bum, to
be too large. Even when it
is laced tight as in the
photo it did not pull the
bustle shape to where it
would suit me... or my taste.
I have narrow hips and this
could be the issue. Were
I to make this for myself again I would scale down
the top panels. I also found
that I needed to move the
lower panel that is at
calf level. The pattern instructions
indicated that this panel be attached
further to the inner curve
of the bustle but I found
it bounced off my calves
too much when I walked -
this may not have happened
if I had a skirt over it
to add weight. I moved the
panel to the front edge of
the bustle and preferred the balance
this gave.
These comments
are not to say there
are problems with the pattern. You
should probably follow the instructions
given with the pattern especially
if you are wearing a skirt with a
train. I've made these comments
so you understand that you may need to make
some minor alterations to suit your
purposes, and that altering
this pattern was quite easy.
I love the shape
of this bustle! and look forward to the skirt pattern
that
is sure to
follow.
